Day 4 in England: Mudlarks and Southwark

The day's agenda:

• 8:30 mudlarking tour with Thames Explorer Trust
• walk across Millennium Bridge
• Borough Market
• Southwark Cathedral
• Tate Modern
• original location of The Globe

Probably the most unhinged thing that I did while planning our trip was make this map. It consists of EVERYTHING that I want to do in England. Like... EVERYTHING. All the forts along Hadrian's Wall. Every castle. Every museum. Isaac Newton's apple tree. All the barrows and standing stones that Google could tell me about (I've since purchased a giant map of the sites of Ancient Britain that will come in handy for my next trip!). All the thrift stores and bakeries and curry stands. 

So when I was planning out our days, if we had a specific place that we were definitely going to be on a specific day, like our tickets to Six or our special tour of Stonehenge, I could then look on my map and easily see all the stuff I wanted to see near that area, or stuff that would be on the way to or from that place. 

That's how our mudlarking excursion on this day would lead right into spending the rest of the day in Southwark: they're neighbors!

Mudlarking is now officially one of the best things that I've done in my LIFE. For a two-week trip, England now holds quite a lot of my most favorite memories!

This two-hour mudlarking tour with Thames Explorer Trust was fortunate in timing, early enough that after it was over we still had nearly the entire day to spend in Southwark; it was less fortunate in regards to the fact that I, personally, got absolutely pig-filthy while larking around in the mud, and had to spend the rest of the day looking at Jackson Pollock paintings and buying fancy doughnuts in pants with muddy knees.

Our tour met at the Millennium Bridge obelisk, where the tour guide took us through the history of England from Neolithic times, showing us mudlarked finds to illustrate her history. We saw Neolithic artifacts, bones, pipes, fossils, and pottery from the Roman, Medieval, Tudor, Elizabethan and more more modern periods, all of which helped us know what to look out for when did our own mudlarking. Bartmann jugs from Germany are tan with a speckled brown glaze, even if you don't get part of a face. Clay pipe stems are older the thicker they are, and they used to be essentially disposable so there are literally millions of them on the banks now. Medieval pottery is also quite thick, and often--but not always--has a green glaze. Roman roof tiles could have evidence of charring from the Great Fire, or, rarely, could have the imprint of an animal's paw. Willowware, my favorite, began in the Victorian period but never stopped being produced so could be quite modern. 

We were in the location of the former Trig Lane, an area that has been in heavy commercial use since at least Roman times. In the 70s an excavation uncovered an entire Medieval quayside that proved its popularity for small boats... which probably explains the thousands of pipe stems on the shore! Tobacco was expensive but clay pipes were cheaply made, so often the pipes were considered single-use, packed with just a bit of tobacco and discarded when done. Pubs would have pipes for patrons to use, and it was considered sanitary to nip the tip of the pipe stem off with every use so that your lips wouldn't touch where someone else's lips had been. 

Here are some of the pipe stems I found:

Look how narrow! A wire was pushed through the hand-rolled clay to create this channel.

The "best" finds are the longest pipe stems, or ideally a complete pipe with an intact bowl. Later pipes had maker's stamps that can be used to date them. The teenagers with their sharp teenager eyes found some pipes with partial bowls, but I was ecstatic with every single utterly basic pipe stem fragment that I found. 

Below, I've got a fragment of a Bartmann jug, a bit of pipe stem, a piece of Willowware, two pieces of Medieval pottery with the green glaze, and a piece whose provenance I can't recall, but I do remember our guide showing me that it's the lip of a vessel, with a gap through the middle where the edge of the clay was folded under:

The college student has some lovely bits of Medieval pottery... and a sheep's tooth!

There were a LOT of animal bones on the foreshore, speaking to the area's history--where better to slaughter animals than a riverbank, where the blood can just wash away? The teenager immediately dove right in and settled into making decorative piles of bones. She thoughtfully even brought the nicest ones to me to admire!

You can sometimes find cut marks in the bones, because of COURSE the best part of a bone is the delicious marrow inside!

To show you the treasures that we were walking on, I zoomed in on this photo in Photoshop and circled every artifact I could see. Most are pipe stems, of course, but I also saw part of a pipe bowl, a piece of a Bartmann jug, more Willowware, some pottery I can't identify but that has embellishment... and, of course, consider that I barely know what I'm looking at, so what other treasures did I miss!

This is why the advice given by serious mudlarkers is to settle down and spend time closely examining one small area. I was WAY too excited to do that, and was pretty much in roomba-mode the entire time. 

More finds!

Some Roman and some Willowware, along with a couple of pieces I don't know.

Here's our tour guide helping the college student identify some of her finds:

One time, she picked an object out of my hand and threw it down the shore. "Asbestos," she said.

Another time, she told me that what I had thought was a marble was actually a MUSKET BALL!!! It was too good for me so she kept it, and I didn't realize until hours later that I hadn't even taken a photo of it! So guess who bitched for the ENTIRE rest of the England trip about the time our tour guide stole my musket ball and I didn't even take a photo? 

She also handed out this ID guide for us to use. No musket balls, but it did help quite a bit with the pottery:

We mudlarked our way steadily east--

I love the Millennium Bridge and Tate Modern in the background!

--until we came to our turnaround point, Queenhithe, where you can see this Anglo-Saxon dock at low tide:

You're not allowed to mudlark in that area, so we started mudlarking our way back again:

I did not keep track of time AT ALL, and finally our guide had to tell us that we were the last people left on the shore, and the tide was coming in quickly. Oops!

After climbing back up the Trig Lane Stairs, we took a quick peek at St. Paul's Cathedral--

--then walked across the Millennium Bridge to Southwark:

I was most excited about seeing Southwark Cathedral, but my family of hungry raccoons was most excited about Borough Market!

Here's a couple who went to Borough Market on a day that was a LOT less crowded than the day we went...

I'm super jealous of them, because we barely had space to move of our own volition in Borough Market! In each aisle there was a crowd going one way and a crowd going the opposite way, and you just sort of nudged yourself into one of the crowds and let it carry you along. 

We still ate, though! We bought a loaf of bread--

--pain au chocolat--

--more bread--

--veggie pies--

--and the teenager even found the specific doughnut place that's gone viral on Tiktok:

Sitting on the filthy ground in a parking lot, with our backs to some construction fencing... you know, as you do!

And then FINALLY, when even the most crowd-tolerant of us had grown frustrated and claustrophobic, we went to look at Southwark Cathedral!

Statue of Minerva in the foreground

I didn't go inside even though I'd have liked to have seen John Gower's tomb, but I DID spend quite a lot of time pretending to start my Canterbury pilgrimage from here:

Shall we ride donkeys to Canterbury together? We can entertain ourselves by telling tales!

On a previous trip to England, Matt and I had LOVED the Tate Modern, so we were both excited to see it again. I think we were all really worn out from the mudlarking and the traipsing through Borough Market, though, because none of us were really into it on this trip. We wandered a bit and saw some famous artists--

--but the only thing I was really revved up about seeing was this genuine Gee's Bend quilt!!!

I don't think I've ever seen one in real life before! Aolar Mosely pieced and quilted the above log cabin quilt, and her daughter, Mary Lee Bendolph, pieced and quilted the basket weave quilt, below:

I love how the techniques are similar enough to speak to each other, but the look is so different. 

You can graduate the homeschooler from the homeschool, but you cannot graduate the homeschooler from sitting herself down at the preschool art table every place she sees one:

For a change, we didn't close this museum down--instead, we went to the Marks and Spencer Simply Food for more noms--Cadbury Popping Jellies! Chocolate-covered ginger Borders! Rekorderlig Strawberry-Lime ciders! Haribo Tangtastics!--then sat and people-watched and passed judgment on the traffic while we ate popsicles. I don't know why I kept getting the Twister because I didn't really like it, but it kept looking so delicious on the package!

We were all more than ready to take the bus back home, but fortunately the last stop on my wish list was just down the steps from the bus stop, across the street from a construction site, and on the other side of a locked gate...

It's Shakespeare!

This private courtyard between two apartment buildings is the original site of Shakespeare's Globe. We'd walked past the reconstructed Globe, just a few blocks to the Northwest, a few times that day. I'd looked into getting us tickets for a performance, because Matt and I saw Hamlet there 20+ years ago and it was EPIC, but I didn't think the kids would like the current show and that would spoil the whole concept of Shakespeare for them.

Right now they're doing A Midsummer Night's Dream, which the kids would have freaking LOVED. Grr!!!

Aww, look at us clinging to the bars like old-fashioned zoo monkeys. We wanted IN!!!

This day felt sooo long, and I was frankly also VERY excited about our bus, because it was the same bus that stops right by our AirBnb, which means NO transfers!!! It was a 45-minute trip, sure, but with no transfers we could plop ourselves down on the top level of our double-decker bus and sightsee (or, let's be real here, nap) the whole way back.

Here's our trip so far!

• Day 1: We made it to England!
• Day 2: Westminster Abbey, National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, and Six
• Day 3: British Museum and Buckingham Palace
• Day 4: Mudlarks and Southwark
• Day 5: Natural History Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum
• Day 6: Pax Lodge, the Tower of London, and Afternoon Tea
• Day 7: Back and Forth by Boat to Greenwich
• Day 8: We Careen Our Way to Canterbury Cathedral and Dover Beach
• Day 9: Dover, Hastings, and a Holloway
• Day 10, Part 1: All the Giant Rocks
• Day 10, Part 2: Stonehenge, At Last!
• Day 11: To Avalon with King Arthur
• Day 12: Tintagel
• Day 13: In the Footsteps of Mary Anning
• Day 14: Homewards!

Day 2 in England: In Which I Meet Chaucer, Eat a Disappointing Lunch, Cry in Front of Van Gogh, and Do Not Loudly Sing Along to Six (Although I Do Loudly Sing Along to Riptide)

OMG it had felt AMAZING to lay my head down at the ripe old hour of 7:00 pm (2:00 pm Eastern Time!) the night before, and I almost felt rested, even, when I woke up at 7:00 am and decided that I'd rather figure out Tim's coffee maker than get a little more sleep.

Hallelujah, for I figured out Tim's coffee maker AND his TV, and by the time the kids were up and about I was two cups deep, eating cold leftover curry on Tim's couch and watching "Breakfast" on BBC One. 

Plans for the day were as follows:

1. 9:30 tickets for Westminster Abbey
2. lunch at the Cafe in the Crypt under St.-Martin's-in-the-Fields
3. National Gallery
4. Trafalgar Square
5. 5:30 tickets for Six at the Vaudeville Theatre

9:30 Tickets for Westminster Abbey

I think we probably spent more money than we needed to on public transportation. Our AirBnb was pretty near Battersea Park Station and Battersea Power Station and I thought we'd use the train a ton, especially, since it zips right into Victoria Station. But I think this is the only day we used the train to get across the river, and only because the bus we thought we were taking to Battersea Power Station unceremoniously dumped everyone off a few stops early and we couldn't work out when/if the next bus was coming.

The 7-Day Travelcards that we bought were probably worth it this time just for the convenience, but next time I think I'll just add money to our Oyster cards and do Pay-As-You-Go. 

I won't even tell you the bus/train/Underground route that we used to wind our way through the city to Westminster, because if you know London you'll probably be horrified at our inefficiency and inability to read a map, and I did absolutely almost get hit by a bicycle because I looked the wrong direction before crossing the street, but eventually I got my magic moment, climbing the stairs out of Westminster Station and seeing Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament, and Westminster Abbey all sitting there, pretty as you please in the bright morning sun.

My teenager had an extremely busy spring (says the parent of every teenager ever), so I didn't get a chance to sneak in much work to preview Westminster Abbey or its historical connections. We're planning a longer study back at home, however, probably making good use of Westminster Abbey's own teaching resources for much of it, so hopefully we can both do a ton of context-building to make what we saw more meaningful. I mainly wanted to see Geoffrey Chaucer and whatever I could see of the chapel of Edward the Confessor without going on their special tour, and other than that I just wanted to look at all the pretty things.

Fortunately, there were so many pretty things!

It might be interested to adapt this People in Christian Art lesson to make it more rigorous for AP Art History, and then have the teenager complete the stained glass activity. 

I hadn't anticipated how much of my time in England would be spent crawling around on the ground, but I had to get my photo taken with all of my heroes!

I was more interested in the burials than the memorials, so I didn't get a photo of Isaac Newton's nearby memorial. It's pretty great, though, with a relief sculpture featuring fat, naked babies doing science. 

I love that his equation is his epitaph. 

I found my man Chaucer! After going "YAY!" a lot and getting my photo taken, I was all, "KIDS! DID YOU KNOW THAT CHAUCER ISN'T BURIED HERE BECAUSE HE'S A POET?!?" And they were all, "OMG Mom yes we know he's buried here because he worked here they didn't have a Poets Corner yet in 1400 you've only told us this 4,000 times please stop now." And then I was all, "RIGHT! IT'S THE BURIAL OF SPENSER THAT GAVE THEM THE IDEA! LET'S GO FIND HIM!"

I do kind of regret that I didn't sign up for the Verger's Tour that would have let me see inside the shrine of Edward the Confessor, because you really couldn't see a thing of it from the outside:

Here's a 15th century stone screen blocking the shrine from the view of us poor folks. 

Can't see him past Henry III, either. 

Fortunately, I COULD see Elizabeth I!

Here's the tomb/memorial to the little princes Edward and Richard. Is there anyone who isn't fascinated by the mystery of what happened to these little guys after they were abducted by Richard III? Considering that he had their uncle and half-brother executed just for being around them, and they were never seen again after the summer of 1483, their remains are probably these bones that were discovered in the Tower of London... BUT there were apparently the bones of two other children also discovered at the Tower of London at one point, so who are those kids?!? AND in their mother's tomb in St. George's Chapel in Windsor castle there are apparently actually four children's coffins... but only two of her children are named as being buried there, sooo... 

Random and awesome Westminster Abbey vibes:

He was only buried there until 1661 because that was when Charles II ordered that his corpse be disinterred and hung on a gallows and its head displayed on a pike. Lovely!

Lord Byron! It's weird that they included his place of death on this monument, because he's not even buried there. He's buried in his family vault in a church in Nottinghamshire, as is his daughter and my heroine, Ada Lovelace. I would have LOVED to have gone to pay my respects, but it's a lot farther north than we went.

The Coronation Chair is high-key gross.

Lunch at the Cafe in the Crypt under St.-Martin's-in-the-Field

One of my teenagers is hella emo, and we all like doing things that are sort of sketchy, so I thought a great place to eat lunch would be the Cafe in the Crypt below St.-Martin's-in-the-Fields. It's a cafe! In a crypt! You can eat right on top of tombstones in a crypt!

And to be fair, that part was pretty cool, but alas that we were starving, because the food was SOOOOOO gross! I got what was supposed to be a vegan ploughman's but what I think was actually a pimiento cheese sandwich on just absolute acres of dry bread. And then Matt's very mayonnaise-forward sandwich came with an incomprehensible mountain of steamed cauliflower, which, there isn't technically anything wrong with a bland mountain of steamed cauliflower, I guess, but we decided that we probably all needed the vitamins so we rationed it out between the four of us and then we all had to eat some bland steamed cauliflower. 

But we did get to eat our cheese sandwiches and steamed cauliflower on top of tombstones like I'd planned, so there was that.

National Gallery

I wasn't super revved up about the National Gallery, but I figured since we were right there (and it was free!) we might as well pop inside. And thank goodness we did, because it was awesome!

It was surprisingly difficult to look up a list of must-see exhibits in any of the museums (it's almost as if they don't want you to visit their museum just to see the iconic pieces, but instead to explore and discover and let yourself be surprised, ahem), so fine. We explored and discovered and every time we turned a corner we were surprised by something marvelous. 

I was surprised and thrilled to see Van Gogh! Real Van Gogh, even, and more immersive than Immersive Van Gogh! I guess I should have expected to find something of him there, but I hadn't, and I was delighted to tears to stand in front of his chair. 

Tangent: The National Gallery website is a terrific resource for a homeschool art history study. You can download the artwork at a decent resolution for studying and making flash cards, and many of the webpages for specific artworks also include extra resources to build context and depth of understanding. The page for Sunflowers, for instance, also features a 30-minute lecture on the painting and Van Gogh's life--I've watched it, and it's great! I learned that Gauguin was a terrible person, and now I'm also pretty sure that he and Van Gogh were lovers. Like, *something* happened in that yellow house, and it sure as hell wasn't all in Van Gogh's head!

I immediately requested two of these books from the public library. Can you guess which two, lol?

Trafalgar Square

When I was finished crying over Van Gogh and surreptitiously taking photos of books in the gift shop (it feels so rude to photograph something specifically because I'm not going to buy it there, but maybe that's just my social anxiety talking), we had a little time left to sit and take in the vibes of Trafalgar Square:

It was a perfect day, with sun and blue skies and a light breeze to show off the mild temperature, just the way it would be every day of our trip. Every day, Matt or I would comment, boomer-like, on the beautiful weather, but we never seemed to jinx it, and my teenager was vocal about never getting the grey fog and gloom that her little emo heart had been promised. 

There were some excellent moments of people-watching in Trafalgar Square--a guy sitting on a bench steadily working his way through a massive bag of KFC; a couple taking turns filming each other's reaction shots for their socials--but my favorite was this busker, who did a beautiful cover of "Riptide," and then, when it was clear that everyone had loved it, did it again!

5:30 Tickets for Six at the Vaudeville Theatre

Six at the West End was one of the dream items on my lifetime wish list, and now I've accomplished it! 

2019 was a magical year for musical theatre, with Beetlejuice, Be More Chill, AND Hadestown all premiering on Broadway (along with my sweet little cinnamon roll of a terrible musical, Percy Jackson and the Lightning Thief, bless its heart) and Six debuting in the West End. 

I long to see all of them, but Six is the first!

The Vaudeville Theatre is a short walk from Trafalgar Square (my travel planning is, as always, a thing of beauty), and I was extra stoked that Six had an extra-early show on this day, because jet lag is real, y'all. But a 5:30 show meant that we could be cozy in our seats in the air-conditioned theatre by 4:45, have a drink of water and a leisurely time in the bathroom--

Notable bathroom signage

--listen to the Tudor-sound covers of pop songs (after humming along absently to one harpsichord number for a couple of minutes, I asked my teenager, "Is this... Havana?" Reader, it WAS!)

Weirdest thing that happened on this day: We were sitting calmly in our seats waiting for Six to start. Some of us might have been quietly napping, even. Ever alert to Other People's Business, however, I was instantly awake and engaged when a very polite kerfuffle began a few rows ahead of us. A couple had arrived at their seats to find two people already sitting in them, and instead of making a fuss, had simply gone and told the usher. 

So then the usher came back and asked the people sitting in the seats if he could see their tickets. Finding all this digital reservations and tickets and booking numbers and crap on my phone was a continual nightmare the entire trip, so I felt for the woman as she fumbled with her phone, but hallelujah she did finally manage to produce her tickets and show them to the usher.

And then the usher was all, "Ma'am, these are tickets to Back to the Future: The Musical."

To be fair, Back to the Future IS currently playing in the West End... but not, you know, in this theatre. Or at this specific show time. So then the usher and the people in the seats had a fascinating back and forth in which the usher tried, and failed, to ascertain what show, in fact, the people thought they had purchased tickets for vs. what they were trying to see. Did they buy tickets to both Back to the Future and Six but got the showtimes mixed up? Did they intend to buy tickets for Six but accidentally bought tickets for Back to the Future instead? Vice versa? Also, how had they even gotten into this theatre in the first place, considering you had to scan your tickets at the entrance? Did they have Six tickets that they scanned but then accidentally pulled up their Back to the Future tickets when they went to find their seats? Does the Back to the Future theatre even have the same seating arrangement?

None of this was resolved, and instead the usher managed to persuade the couple to leave their seats and come with him to figure it out elsewhere. And then the new couple sat down and to my knowledge, even though everybody heard the whole thing, nobody proceeded to gossip about it AT ALL. So I felt like I couldn't, either, but then it's pretty much all I talked about for the next week, and I'm still curious.

If you have any information, please leave a Comment below!

The production did a clever thing by announcing that you could take pictures during the encore song. I'd imagine it cut way down on bootleg photos during the rest of the show.

I was so excited during this show that I'm pretty sure that my soul left my body at times. It was amazing, and if you ever want to meet up sometime for chips and salsa and a pitcher of margaritas, I'd love to tell you all about it. The teenagers are also familiar with the cast recording and have their favorite wives, so it was fun to compare our opinions about the performances and who we liked best. We all agreed that we're not really the power ballad sort, so our favorites were Anne of Cleves and Anne Boleyn, with Anne of Cleves 100% stealing the show. 

My teenager has a decent background re: Henry VIII thanks to being a homeschooler and, frankly, from listening to the Six album so much, but this will be another area of interest that we hit harder at home for her History and Culture of England study. It fits in perfectly with both of her major themes of Place-Based Study and Creative Interpretation. To add to the latter, I kind of want to show her The Tudors, but from what I remember it's actually super porny--but so was Henry VIII, I guess! Let me know if you've got more ideas for creative interpretations of the Tudor period that don't involve quite so much on-screen sex.

It hadn't really felt like a super-packed day, but it had definitely felt like a LONG day, so tbh we were all pretty thrilled to take the Underground and the bus back to our AirBnb for an early night. Matt picked up pizza, and I ate, watched British TV, and fell sound asleep within the hour.

Next up: the British Museum and Buckingham Palace!

• Day 1: We made it to England!
• Day 2: Westminster Abbey, National Gallery, Trafalgar Square, and Six
• Day 3: British Museum and Buckingham Palace
• Day 4: Mudlarks and Southwark
• Day 5: Natural History Museum and Victoria and Albert Museum
• Day 6: Pax Lodge, the Tower of London, and Afternoon Tea
• Day 7: Back and Forth by Boat to Greenwich
• Day 8: We Careen Our Way to Canterbury Cathedral and Dover Beach
• Day 9: Dover, Hastings, and a Holloway
• Day 10, Part 1: All the Giant Rocks
• Day 10, Part 2: Stonehenge, At Last!
• Day 11: To Avalon with King Arthur
• Day 12: Tintagel
• Day 13: In the Footsteps of Mary Anning
• Day 14: Homewards!