Tuesday, August 1, 2023

Day 10 in England, Part 2: Stonehenge

 

After plane tickets, the first thing that I booked for our England trip were these tickets for access to the interior of Stonehenge--right off the top of the budget, with everything else filled in around it. It's what I was most excited about, a truly once-in-my-lifetime-so-far experience, and I'm just gonna go ahead and tell you right now that it was EVERYTHING I'd hoped it would be. As in, I'd hoped that it would be the most magical experience of my life, the most awesome thing I've ever done, the most special family activity anyone could ever plan, and I'd take the absolute most coolest photos there, and I'd marvel at the size of the stones and the mystery of their purpose and their construction and I would have SO. MUCH. FUN. 

Goal achieved!

We drove straight to Stonehenge from Avebury, and arrived exactly on time. With these evening tickets, you're allowed onto the site an hour before it closes so you can explore the museum, but the site actually closes to day ticket entries two hours before it officially closes, so we had to show our booking to get past the blockade... which may have given all the cars behind us hope, as they all stopped trying to turn around before the blockade and instead got in line behind us and made the security guard have to turn each of them away personally, oops. 

One hour was NOT enough time to see the Stonehenge museum, but I was able to make myself stare at everything more quickly than I usually like to stare at everything, so I managed.

My favorite part of the museum was this set of sculptures that showed Stonehenge during its various stages of construction. It was used from the Mesolithic period, perhaps around 8000 BCE based on radiocarbon dating of giant posts that were constructed then, through the Middle Bronze Age, perhaps around 1600 BCE. For that entire time, people were changing up Stonehenge--adding stones and ditches and barrows and pits, moving stones to different locations, carving the stones, burying people and things, etc. Below is a sculpture of Stonehenge at what was probably its most elaborate formation, around 2500 BCE. In the middle is a horseshoe of five giant trilithons, encircled by a ring of 30 sarsen stones topped with lintels. There's a double row of smaller bluestones standing between the two sets, and some of those bluestones have evidence that something was also on top of them--more lintels, perhaps? More sarsens, now called the Station Stones, were arranged singularly at various points, including that one lying in front of the tallest trilithon.

Important note: I didn't frame the compass rose in my photo, but north isn't at the top. The winter solstice sunset is at the top!

And here's Stonehenge as it looks today. There's a terrific aerial photo in Stonehenge: Making Sense of a Prehistoric Mystery, in which you can actually see the location of the missing stones as "parchmarks," or brown spots, in the grass. The existence of a giant standing stone changed the soil composition so the grass doesn't grow as nicely there!

I got the compass rose in this one! North points right-ish.

Here's another excellent map of Stonehenge, with links that give you a close-up view of every individual stone.

The entire area around Stonehenge was clearly significant, as well, and the museum had an excellent large-screen film that showed the various dates of construction of all the various barrows and cursi and henges in the region, many of which you can still visit, and some of which are on English Heritage property. 

Happily, the outdoor part of the museum (and the gift shop!) remained accessible after Stonehenge closed to day ticket holders, so I was able to keep myself entertained by exploring how the Neolithic peoples around Stonehenge might have lived:


Here are some of the other important sites in the area.

Finally, an hour after the museum closed to day ticketholders, 30 of us got on a bus with our guide to drive across the site to Stonehenge. Included in our group was another family with kids, various tourists from other countries and across the UK, a couple who'd brought several instruments that they wanted to film each other playing within the stones, and a large group, maybe half of the total, who wanted to stand in a circle and meditate and chant together inside the stones. 

One thing that I didn't realize until our bus arrived at the site is that you can actually get a pretty good view of Stonehenge for free. The A303 drives right past it, complete with congested traffic since everyone slows down to look, and there's another small road--Willoughby Road, I think?--that intersects the site, with a walking path to a viewing point that's just outside the fenced-in area.

Also? People were living on the side of this road! There were a couple of permanent tents, and a bunch of campers, all along the roadside, where they just live within sight of Stonehenge. This is very historically accurate, actually, as archaeological evidence points to some type of community that lived around Stonehenge at various times during its original prominence.

I was taking a photo of the Stonehenge Cursus, but you can see a few of the tents and campers on Willoughby Rd. There were a ton more to the left of the frame.

Here's my view of the overall Stonehenge site while we got our lecture on not touching or climbing on the stones:

It was incredibly hard to stay oriented, but I think we're standing southwest of the stones.

We're northwest of the stones, I think. Later, when I'm taking photos of everyone silhouetted by the sunset, I'll be framing them either within that inner trilithon with the narrow gap, or within that sarsen stone with the intact lintel. We're only about a month out from the Summer Solstice!

Selfie mode! I'm a little southeast of Stonehenge, with the tallest standing stone that was once part of the center trilithon of the Horseshoe over my left shoulder. 

Lecture internalized, we were set free to step over the fencing and walk as we wished among the stones!

Trilithon, with a sarsen and its lintel behind it. 

I'm off-center, but this is a view from the center of Stonehenge, through the intact parts of the sarsen circle, to the Heel Stone that marks the location of sunrise on the Summer Solstice. To get the perfect view of the sunrise, you'd want to frame the Heel Stone through the center opening, not the left one as I've done.

I think she's looking at the remaining standing stone of what would have been the tallest trilithon in the inner horseshoe, with an intact trilithon beyond it.

Trilithon from the inner horseshoe, some intact sarsens from the outer circle, and a couple of intact bluestones.

I'm standing in the center, looking northeast towards the sunset. 

The openings in the trilithons that make up the inner horseshoe are quite narrow; they're much wider in the outer sarsen circle.



Looking south, with Bluestones from the inner circle, a trilithon from the Horseshoe, and a sarsen stone from the outer circle.
This stone is very special! See the line of carved graffiti, which probably dates from sometime in the 1600s? Below that are carvings of daggers that date from probably 1750-1500 BCE. There are just a very few examples of original carvings here, and it's theorized that these are meant to be viewed with similar carvings on a sarsen to its north to point towards the southern major moonrise. 

This was formerly one of the uprights of the tallest trilithon in the horseshoe, but it's fallen towards the center and broken into two pieces. It's been extensively graffitied with carvings over the centuries, and it's heavily damaged by tourists who've hammered pieces off of it.

The lintel of the trilithon that Matt is looking at actually fell in 1797, and lay on the ground until its restoration in 1958.

Southeast trilithon, with a seated Julie for scale!

These uprights are really cool, because you can see that the Neolithic people carved the uprights and lintels with mortise and tenon joints. There's even a lintel with mortises carved on both sides, presumably because they messed up the spacing on one side, so they just flipped it over and tried again on the other side!

This is the tallest standing stone at Stonehenge, at 22'7" to the top of the tenon. It would have paired with the stone next to it, now fallen, to make the tallest trilithon at the center of the horseshoe.

The sun is beginning to set behind the northwesternmost remaining part of the sarsen outer circle! The lintel and one of the uprights fell in 1900, and the lintel broke in half. It was repaired and restored in the 1950s. 
Selfie with a southeast Sarsen!

Tallest standing stone, with teenager for scale.

The sun beginning to set behind the western stones was my favorite part of our time inside Stonehenge. You see how many photos I have just of the stones, right? Now imagine about ten times that many family photos, with my patient family staged in various poses and groupings, framed interestingly silhouetted by the sunset and the stones, every time I could catch them. Send thoughts and prayers to the teenager, especially, who was required to utilize the several thousand dollars I've spent on her ballet training to leap and do other pretty dancer things while I photographed her. She can count herself lucky that our luggage constraints meant I couldn't require her to bring a pair of old pointe shoes for additional poses!

Looking northeast at the shadow of the Sarsen Circle.

The northeast section contains the longest remaining intact portion of the Sarsen Circle.


Looking east towards the two intact trilithons on the south side of the horseshoe, with the shadow of the one other intact trilithon and the tallest standing stone. Delighted Julie posed for scale!


Looking southeast towards the A303. I love this photo of Matt in the shadow of the Sarsen Circle!

We wandered the inner circle for about an hour, then finally our Day of Giant Rocks was over. Fortunately, our inn was just a few minutes away, and dinnertime was just a few minutes after that!

Here is a glass of water that is noticeable because of the American-sized portion of ICE!!! The American obsession with ice is because we've always had access to so much of it, what with our Great Lakes to the north that supported an industry of harvesting ice, packing it in sawdust, and sending it south. Countries that didn't have this kind of access never got accustomed to icy beverages, and now they think we're weird.


Actually, it was a running joke during our entire trip that England apparently places little value on hydration in general. The one time that Matt asked for a refill of his Coke in a restaurant the waiter looked so visibly disturbed that as soon as he left the rest of us were all, "OMG that was so embarrassing you can never do that again!" It turned out that the secret was just to order a hard cider instead of a soft drink. Refills of cider are socially approved!

We also had a little lesson in British food that we honestly probably should have already known. Some of us ordered pizza, and it came out looking like this and tasted absolutely delicious.

I demolished this pizza. It was so good! The little container of ranch was another funny American touch. They really wanted me to feel at home!

This, however, is my poor teenager's order of "nachos."


She has tortilla chips, a little bit of queso, a sweet(!) meat sauce, then little containers of sour cream, a kind of guacamole, and a tomato sauce that a nod to salsa. And five peppers sans heat. Her dismay was probably very similar to what European tourists to America feel when they eat at, say, an Olive Garden. 

The serving board was beautiful, though!

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