I Still Hate George Rogers Clark, But Vincennes Has Two Native American Mounds, Only One Of Which I'd Seen Before

Also, Mr. Craft Knife knew I was lonely for my kids and there's nothing that will cheer me up like a national park passport stamp.

And it doesn't hurt that I'm desperate to watch Project Hail Mary on IMAX but we're listening to the book on CD first, and a day trip is a great way to bust through a good three CDs!

So, off to Vincennes!

I've only been to Vincennes, and the George Rogers Clark National Historical Park, once before, on a family day trip way back when the kids were ten and twelve and we were studying the American Revolution. I was in a phase of trying to turn composition books into single-subject journals in which the kids could take notes and record their thoughts and paste documents and write essays. We could then keep the notebooks, and every time we returned to that same subject, the kids could use them for review and then add all their new information. I still think this is an AMAZING idea, but the kids never stopped being horrified by it, so eventually I gave up.

And that's why they now don't remember all their states and capitals or all the original 13 colonies!

Anyway, I was still very much insisting on American Revolution notebooks during this homeschool field trip, and I'm so happy I did (and a little bummed at myself for not holding the line forever) when I can pull out gems like this, written by the older kid as a travel journal entry after this trip:

This was also the day that I discovered that my 10-year-old could correctly utilize scare quotes!

It's been just almost ten years since that trip, and nothing has changed. The older kid still thinks that all money would best be served by being given to her, the younger kid still strongly emits in every encounter the sentiment implied by scare quotes, and the George Rogers Clark Memorial still sits on top of the site that used to be Fort Sackville:

OT, but why am I genuinely channeling my Pappa in this photo, with my hands shoved into my pockets and my phone on prominent display in the cargo pocket equivalent of a cellphone holster? All I need is a couple of handfuls of coins and keys to jingle.

Random gossip: back in the 1930s, when plans for this building were being made and bids were being taken for the work, the limestone lobby and the granite lobby got into a big fight. The limestone lobby was all, "Yo, The building should obviously be made from Indiana limestone, because INDIANA. Granite isn't even FROM here!"

And then the granite lobby was all, "Yeah, that's awesome if you want your whole building to look like a weathered old gravestone in 30 years. You know what DOESN'T literally dissolve in the rain? GRANITE."

Ultimately, it was decided to do the outside parts in granite and the inside parts in limestone, but then someone found out that the granite they were planning to use was being sourced from Canada (gasp!), and both the limestone lobby AND the granite lobby freaked out. 

Don't worry, y'all. They eventually found enough US granite to complete the project and peace was restored.

I know the people of the early 1900s were allllllll about their huge granite memorials (see: Abraham Lincoln Birthplace National Historical Park), but I far prefer the historical recreation school of thought (see Fort Necessity National Battlefield). Instead of a huge monument right where Fort Sackville used to be, wouldn't you prefer a life-sized recreation of Fort Sackville? 

At least they can't take away the river across which Clark and his "army" (lol, that kid!) sneaked... although they CAN channelize it, it seems!

There's not much of a riparian buffer zone on the east bank, but regular flooding is more historically accurate, I guess:

We walked across the bridge to get a landscape view of the site. There also used to be a French village in the area, but I'm not sure where:

You can kind of imagine a fort right where that big granite monument is!

This is my partner, who literally DROVE US HERE, being disturbingly surprised that we're at the edge of the state:

I was all, "Well, we drove southwest until we got to the Wabash River. What did you think was going to be on the other side?"

He replied, "Um... more Indiana?"

Come on, Dude! The Wabash River is the state river of Indiana! It marks the the southwest border of the state almost all the way up to Terre Haute, and then somehow manages to wrap around Indiana and end up on the other side of the state in Ohio! There have been songs written about it and how it's literally right here! One of those songs is literally the Indiana state song!

Ten years ago, I would have smugly informed him that he was welcome to join our homeschool anytime. On this day, however, I had to just let a smug look suffice.

This church isn't original to the site, but the cemetery is, and it's the site of the original church:

I feel a lot of sympathy for the French citizens of the original town, who probably spent all day, every day, swearing allegiance back and forth to whoever had happened to wrest temporary control over the fort next door.

I don't feel any sympathy for any widower who names his dead wife as his "consort" on her tombstone:

It's apparently just the term they used on a headstone when the wife predeceased the husband, but you and I both know good and well that's so the dude could marry again five minutes later and not have to worry about a whole string of "wife" headstones tagging along behind him. You only get to be his "wife" when he dies first, because that's the only way you wouldn't get supplanted!

This headstone, however, is lovely:

You do have to ignore the apostrophe error, though. I'm too lazy to look up when punctuation was completely standardized, but I'm pretty confident this would have always been wrong. It's a plural, not a possessive!

To the memorial!

I don't know if y'all know about my lord and savior Baumgartner Restoration, but his videos are AMAZING and will cause you to become weirdly invested in art restoration, to such an extent that when you walk into a building and see old-looking art, you'll ask the nearest park ranger about what restoration looks like for that art.

And then he'll tell you, because park rangers are also amazing!

I learned that these are not actually murals, but canvases painted in a warehouse and then installed here using marouflage. The park ranger even pointed out a couple of place where you could see some wrinkling where the canvas hadn't adhered smoothly. He also mentioned this canvas that had been revised, because from the viewing angle it originally looked like that one prone soldier on the right was aiming at George Rogers Clark, lol!

The park ranger and I yapped so much that this poor dude eventually had to sit down and dissociate, lol:

He got his revenge, though, because later he left me standing by the bathrooms, wondering where on earth he was, while he'd actually wandered off to have a whole entire conversation about these Art Deco bronze embellishments with that same park ranger!

How do you end up with the Zodiac on an American Revolution memorial?

Art Deco!

My absolute favorite component is the corn:

I also like George Rogers Clark, his nose polished because that's where everyone touches him:

Fun fact: the memorial is literally falling apart, with the original bronze doors collapsing and the skylight starting to fall in and leaks from all over during every rain. There's no way to get the money to repair it, though, because Trump cut funding to the national parks. Who needs to preserve our national legacy when we can instead have a dictator's private army of jackbooted thugs committing human rights violations on our streets? 

At this point, I need to tell you that other than the Jackbooted Thug in Chief, Mr. Craft Knife and I are the dumbest fucks on the planet. To reiterate, this is the George Rogers Clark memorial:

There's a set of steps to get into the inside, and then a covered area all the way around that colonnade, and then another paved area below that enclosed by that middle wall. The bottom wall just has landscaping inside of it. 

To our credit(?), each of these areas is expansive, and it's unclear--if you're a dumb fuck, at least!--where any additional points of egress might be.

So when Mr. Craft Knife and I, busily yapping our heads off to each other, left the building, walked down a set of steps, and turned right, we found ourselves walking around the entire building via that colonnade. We kept expecting there would be another set of steps down, but nope! We walked around, spying the visitor center we wanted to go to in the distance, continued around, admired the river, and eventually circled back to the first set of stairs we saw, which we now noticed continued down another flight.

"Lol, us!" we said, walked down that flight of stairs, and turned right to go to the visitor center.

It wasn't until we saw--and then passed--it in the distance that we realized we were on that paved area below the memorial that was also elevated and walled off. But surely there would be another set of stairs HERE! Nope! There goes the river for the second time! Hello again, statue of Francis Vigo, namesake of Vigo County!

Eventually we reached, yes, that exact same set of stairs again, and noticed that oh, right, it continues down ANOTHER FUCKING FLIGHT.

Finally, we managed to conquer the world's easiest escape room, and could go get my passport stamp!

That's 34 down, and 399 to go!

Burrito and margarita break:

Now, onto the mounds!

There's a lot of conflicting information about Sugarloaf Mound and Pyramid Mound, and it's not immediately clear what information is authoritative. This webpage, for instance, names Pyramid Mound but has photos and driving direction for Sugarloaf Mound, making it unclear which mound the descriptions refer to. The Wikipedia page for Pyramid Mound also shows photos of Sugarloaf Mound. The Megalithic Portal site has accurate info on its page about Sugarloaf Mound, but its page about Pyramid Mound... also shows an image of Sugarloaf Mound, sigh.

Here's what's written about Sugarloaf Mound in the 1911 History of Old Vincennes:

Fortunately, a study of Sugar Loaf Mound was done in 1998. It found that Sugar Loaf Mound is natural--it's essentially a sand dune formed from all the silt/loess blowing around after the glaciers receded. The "red altar clays" are a misidentification, but there was significant human activity on the mound, as this study found human bones and chert in the core samples. The author theorizes that the mound was used as a "cemetery" by the Late Woodland peoples. The Woodlands people just loved burying each other on top of nice knolls! This article said they'd sometimes build artificial burial mounds, too, but those were pretty small--what they really liked is a nice, tall mound that was already there for them. So now I'm wondering if they'd also take advantage of the super old Mound Builder-era mounds and also pop some of their corpses in. Or maybe they thought that these mounds WERE from the Mound Builder era, since they look so similar!

You certainly can't beat the view from the top:

...and of course I've got my hands in my pockets again:

I made my partner walk alll the way down by himself so he could take a photo of me looking tiny at the top. It's not every day that you get to stand on top of a mound!

Just between us, it's a little less exciting when it's not an earthwork that was built by the ancient peoples, but if they thought it was special, then so do I.

Although the author of "The Geomorphology of Sugar Loaf Mound" didn't also sample Pyramid Mound, he theorizes that it's also natural, since it has the same shape and is in a similar geographic situation that could have resulted in the same type of dune formation. A previous excavation of that mound uncovered more human burials and a piece of the fancy Yankeetown pottery. This sign said that the human remains were repatriated but the pottery lives at Grouseland, the historic home of that asshole William Henry Harrison.

Notice the signage is explicitly calling the mound natural, but as far as I know that hasn't been directly ascertained through core samples or other excavations. But I do think that 1998 Stafford study made a convincing argument!

I've been avoiding paying admission to that bag of dicks' house because I hate him, but I guess now I'll have to!

The whole area of Pyramid Mound is really overgrown, and you probably wouldn't be able to hike it much further into Spring without getting mobbed by ticks:

There's a line of little blue utility flags, though, that mark a trail towards the top, and as you walk it, you can--again, at least this early in the Spring--make out the profile of the mound:

The top of the mound is very overgrown with old trees, but there are also a lot of divots dug deep into the mound, making me wonder if sometimes people sneak up here and do some pothunting:

Sugarloaf Mound is straight ahead in the below photo, and it's actually pretty close. Without the trees in the way, you might even be able to see it from here:

And here's... Jesus Christ, I've got my hand in my pocket AGAIN. I guess my Pappa was really with me that day! 

That's kind of funny, because Pappa would have HAAATED a day trip to mosey around American Revolution crap and big piles of dirt. HIS Special Interest was the Wild West!

P.S. Want more obsessively-compiled lists of resources and activities for geology buffs, history nerds, and lovers of handicrafts? Check out my Craft Knife Facebook page!

We Took the Dog to the Beach

My partner and I are planning a big trip to meet up with our older kid in New Zealand this winter after her study-abroad program ends, so that's where our discretionary budget and disposable income are both going for the next few months. But still, I wanted to take some kind of trip this summer, because at this point, and especially with the older kid griping about how she'd missed the deadline for summer internships this year and plans to not make that mistake next year, every summer together could be our last summer all together. 

So what might my darling children want to do for a summer vacation that's possibly our last summer vacation for who knows when? Not express their gratitude that their parent wants to plan a vacation based on their preferences when nobody ever planned a vacation with her preferences in mind when she was a kid, that's for sure! Kids these days, am I right? Anyway, they mostly wanted to fight about it. The older kid really wanted a beach vacation that included her dog, but the younger kid hates beaches the most and would never willingly step onto a beach and do we not know that she is allergic to the sun and of course she does not need Vitamin D because she is "built different," etc. The younger kid wanted to go to a concert in Chicago but concerts, you may know, are not typically dog-friendly and so the older kid would like to understand how could we possibly be so cold-hearted as to so much as consider a vacation that did not include THE DOG.

Fortunately, after 15 years of this kind of crap, I can easily slash my way through these disagreements using my favorite go-to technique, fittingly entitled Please Neither of Them. In this case, Pleasing Neither of Them consisted of a couple of days at the Indiana Dunes National Park, during which the younger kid mostly hung out in the AirBnb or wandered around doing her own thing while the rest of us played at the beach with the dog, followed by a couple of days in Chicago, where the older kid and the dog mostly hung out in the hotel or walked around doing their own thing while the rest of us went to the Cavetown/Mother Mother concert.

The secret to Pleasing Neither of Them is that I personally LOVE both vacation ideas, so a Win/Lose for each of the brats is always a Win/Win for me!

On the way up north, I even got us to stop off for a long detour in Lafayette so we could check a few spots off in our Indiana Culinary Trails passports--I am grinding for that wine tumbler! 

Check out those clouds!

I'm a little mad that I ended up forgetting to order the Famous Fruit Drink from The Igloo on account of 1) the clouds were GLORIOUS that day, thanks to Hurricane Beryl remnants, 2) one of the kids is obsessed with clouds, and 3) the Igloo's parking lot had a tree blocking the "best" cloud so while my partner ordered and waited for our food I walked with the kids down the street to a better spot, thus forgetting to order the fancy juice I'd wanted to bring with us to our AirBnb. 

Ah, well, at least the kid has a dozen more beautiful cloud photos on her ipod to show for our efforts, and we did not forget the most important order, a pup cup for Luna!

We hit up a little more Lafayette local color--

--then finished up the rest of our drive to the lake. 

When my older kid and I took Luna to Indiana Dunes for the first time a few years ago, I LOVED the AirBnb we'd stayed at, so much so that I literally planned this vacation around its open dates. It's centrally located, sure, just minutes from all the beaches, includes ample parking, two bedrooms, and a complimentary bottle of wine, has a fenced-in backyard, and is comfortable and safe, but most importantly, especially to the younger kid, whose Netflix watchlist is longer than mine, it includes Netflix and Disney+, and y'all KNOW how we feel about streaming services! So the younger kid hardly acted put-upon at all during this leg of our trip, not when she could settle in to binge the entirety of Dead Boy Detectives while the rest of us hit up the Indiana Dunes National Park Visitor Center for parking passes and passport stamps and then took Luna to the beach:

She still loves it!

This trip, she discovered the additional joy of chasing seagulls--they just keep coming back for more!--and with three of us to take turns running her to exhaustion, there was also plenty of time for everyone else to do their lovely beach lounging:

Don't you love her doggy life jacket? It's a Ruffwear Float Coat, size medium. 

Below is the face of a dog who woke up from a nap to find themselves buried to the neck in sand! Somehow we got ourselves the world's most patient dog...

Both days at the beach, Luna was so exhausted that she kept trying to lie down during the long walk back to the car, and then she slept like a rock all evening while the rest of us ate take-out pizza and binged Netflix. I feel like I have taken most of my interior design ideas from the AirBnbs I've visited--that's how I learned about the joys of a ridiculously giant couch!--and from this one, I've sort of come away with the idea that wouldn't it be nice to have a TV in the family room. It was so cozy to all hang out on the couch and watch TV together in this AirBnb. But we also don't have anywhere in the family room at home to PUT a TV, if I'm being honest, nor anything to watch on it other than YouTube and library DVDs, sooo...

It WAS super cozy, though!

P.S. Want to follow along with my craft projects, books I'm reading, road trips to random little towns, looming mid-life crisis, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!

When You're Bored in Indiana

The accepted advice is to get in the car and drive down backroads until you find something to do.

On the way, it's important to compare everyone's cornfields with the expertise that comes from never having been a farmer of corn, yourself, admire everyone's falling-down old barn, and verbally acknowledge every farm animal, with added enthusiasm if it's something on the weirder end like a miniature pony or a llama or a mule--Indiana is very horse- and cow-forward!

The other day, the three of us in the family who aren't nocturnal (tangent, but when the roommate selection form tells you to be honest in your responses, do they REALLY want you to admit to them that your bedtime is 6:00 am? Asking for... well, you know who I'm asking for, sigh...) were bored, so we took off down the back roads. Everyone's corn is looking pretty good, but those infinite fields of monocultures are a crying shame. Did you know that prior to pioneer incursion, forests covered over 85% of the state? It's VERY important to start bitching about monocultures after you pass your tenth cornfield or so. We saw some excellent barns, mostly threshing but some random-looking vernacular ones, too, and a shocking number of goats. 

We ended up at Wild Geese Bookshop in Franklin, Indiana, where we browsed--

--I tried to suss out the titles of the Blind Date with a Book books using only their vague descriptions (when one of the clues is "Indiana author" it's always going to be John Green, not Gene Stratton-Porter), and the big kid got herself a brand-new, non-blind date book.

We later wandered into Madison Street Salvage--

--where the vintage Fiestaware--and honestly the vintage postcards and photos, too--were out of my personal budget--

--and I refused entirely to even look inside the glass case of dolls after I saw the sign on the front reading "Not Haunted" (nice try, Annabelle!), but I did buy myself a first edition of Ethel Hollister's First Summer as a Campfire Girl. It's in pretty poor condition so even at $3 I paid what it's worth, but I collect all the girl versions of the Tom Brown's School Days-type book, and I particularly like the Campfire Girl and Girl Scout books for their hilariously heavy pro-Scout propaganda. Here's my favorite quote so far from my new book:

[This Camp Fire Girl is going to be such an improvement over the ordinary girl. She's going to revolutionize young women and make of them useful members of society--not frivolous butterflies--and it will be carried into the poorer classes and teach girls who have never had a chance, so that they may become good cooks and housekeepers and love beautiful things. And their costume is so pretty and sensible.]

 Okay, then! At least they're not trying to come on too strong!

I did not buy the marquee letters or massive wooden mantelpiece that I wanted, but I might come back another time with the hardware for one of our house's original doors that I'm trying to refinish, because they've got a whole set of different skeleton keys that you can try out.

It does turn out, though, that one's wallet opens a little easier after one has had a nice, long free wine-tasting, ahem...

I believe I set a personal record for the amount of money spent on a single bottle of wine, but in my own defense, it is DELICIOUS.

Also, this kid cheats at checkers:

P.S. Want to follow along with my craft projects, books I'm reading, road trips to random little towns, looming mid-life crisis, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!