DIY Upcycled Cardboard Polyominoes

 

This tutorial was originally posted on Crafting a Green World.

Polyominoes are a super fun educational toy. When made from upcycled cardboard food packaging, they’re also super eco-friendly!

If you’ve ever played Tetris, you know what polyominoes are, AND you know how fun they are!

Without getting too mathy, because I know that scares some of y’all, polyominoes are shapes that you can draw on a piece of graph paper using the same number of squares.

You know dominoes, right? Those are polyominoes made of two units.

Tetrominoes are made of four units. When you play Tetris, you’re playing with tetrominoes!

Pentominoes, pieces made from five units, are my personal favorite.

There are infinite really interesting math problems–many of which have never been completely solved!–that utilize polyominoes. But even for us non-professional mathematicians, polyominoes remain very fun. You can build cool patterns with them. You can create puzzles from them, then try to solve them! And, if you have a kid around, they’re a sneaky way to build their logical reasoning skills and to teach concepts of area, perimeter, patterning, and other even more abstract, sophisticated geometry and measurement concepts.

Also, I’m just going to say it one more time–they’re really fun!

You don’t need another set of plastic game pieces kicking around your home, though. Instead, here’s how to make any set of polyominoes that you want from sturdy, upcycled, recyclable cardboard.

To make your own set of upcycled cardboard polyominoes, you will need:

• upcycled cardboard. Cardboard food packaging is perfect for this project–for this tutorial, I’m making all my polyominoes from Girl Scout cookie boxes! It would be VERY fun, though, to make “life-sized” or giant polyominoes from corrugated cardboard.
• graph paper. Once upon a time, I scored the rest of someone’s stash of 1″ graph paper at a yard sale, but the internet exists now, and so you can just print graph paper at any size. Or if you, like all the other cool kids these days, don’t own a printer, you can buy it commercially.
• measuring and cutting supplies. I made all these polyominoes with a pen and a pair of scissors.
• double-sided tape (optional). All polyominoes other than Tetris pieces are meant to be able to be flipped over, and if you get into doing polyomino puzzles, solutions will often require it. For that reason, I make most of my own polyomino pieces double-sided. But if the difference between the front and back of a polyomino piece doesn’t bother you, then don’t bother with this extra step!

Step 1: Create the polyomino patterns.

This first step is my favorite!

On graph paper, sketch out the outlines of your polyominoes. You can easily Google patterns for various polyomino sets, but kids, especially, find it VERY fun to create their own polyominoes from scratch.

Cut out your polyominoes, and you’re ready to apply them to the cardboard.

Step 2: Use the paper templates to make cardboard polyominoes.

Trace around the polyominoes and cut them out of the upcycled cardboard.

Using upcycled cardboard food packaging gives you a lot of scope for creativity! If you’ve got a variety of colors, like I do with my Girl Scout cookie boxes, it can be fun to make each type of polyomino a different colors. Or, decide that the plain cardboard side will be front-facing, and decorate the pieces with markers.

Step 3 (optional): Make the polyominoes double-sided.

Tetris gets away with not letting you flip pieces by making the flipped side a completely separate piece. For every other use, though, you’ll generally want to be able to flip your pieces over. If you’re using cardboard that’s roughly the same on the front and back, that’s not a problem, but with this cardboard food packaging that has a printed side and a plain side, I’ve discovered that many people, and especially kids, find it non-intuitive to have to flip pieces. We’re just not used to working with both the “front” and “back” of a puzzle!

To solve that problem, make your polyominoes double-sided.

Just cut out a second piece (flip the pattern over if the piece isn’t symmetrical!), then attach the two with double-sided tape. Now both of your sides look cute, and it’s easy to realize that you can flip them!

There are so many ways to extend the fun of polyominoes while exercising your brain and developing numeracy and logical reasoning skills. A mini set taped onto a magnet sheet and put into an Altoids tin is a terrific little travel game; for even more fun, hand-draw or print puzzle templates on plain paper and cut them out to fit in the tin, too. A larger set of tetrominoes and a few pieces of grid paper taped together make a fun two-player, analog Tetris game; for more fun, add more magnets and place on a wall-mounted metal sheet.

P.S. Want to follow along with my craft projects, books I'm reading, dog-walking mishaps, encounters with Chainsaw Helicopters, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!

DIY Corrugated Cardboard Tower of Hanoi

 

This tutorial was originally published on Crafting a Green World.

Tower of Hanoi is a super simple, surprisingly fun logic game suitable for early elementary through adults.

I have a weakness for solitaire games, especially logic puzzles. I’ve built up a respectable collection thanks to thrift stores and yard sales, but there’s always room for one more puzzle in my life, especially one that’s NOT made from plastic!

This Tower of Hanoi is NOT made from plastic! Instead, it’s made from that likely-looking piece of corrugated cardboard hanging out there in your recycling bin. Cut it up, add some decorations, and you’ll have yourself a brand-new version of a 140-year-old logic game.

Here’s everything that you’ll need to DIY your own Tower of Hanoi:

• corrugated cardboard. Since the pieces are manipulatives, I prefer the thicker, sturdier corrugated cardboard over the thinner kind for this project.
• measuring and cutting tools. You’ll need circles of varying diameters to use as templates for your Tower of Hanoi pieces. Look around, and I bet you can scavenge these circles from your existing bottles, cups, caps, etc.
• embellishment supplies (optional). You don’t *need* to embellish the pieces, but since when did that stop anyone from making something pretty?

Step 1: Measure and cut the pieces.

You can play Tower of Hanoi with three or more pieces, but I think seven or eight pieces are a good total number to have. You can always subtract pieces from a larger set to make a round easier!

To make the complete puzzle look like a lovely tower, select circle templates with different diameters, ideally ones that will give a nice graduated look from smallest to largest when you stack them. As you can see from the above photo, you should be able to find all of these circle templates around your house. My smallest circle template is an eensy SodaStream flavoring bottle cap, and my largest is the top of a plastic drink cup from my favorite pizza place–I also used the bottom of the cup to make a different circle!

Trace all the circles onto corrugated cardboard, then cut them out by hand with sturdy scissors.

If you like the way the undecorated Tower of Hanoi looks, you’re done! However, I think the game looks a LOT cuter with some embellishment…

Step 2: Decorate the pieces.

With seven pieces to my puzzle, how could I NOT make a rainbow?

One of the many amazing things about corrugated cardboard is that it takes all kinds of embellishment like an absolute dream. I painted these circles with Liquitex acrylics, but Sharpies or even Crayola markers all show up well. Use Mod Podge to decoupage scrapbook paper, or paint plus paint pens to make more detailed artworks on these tiny canvases.

Step 3: Play!

The rules of Tower of Hanoi are simple:

1. Start with the tower stacked with the circles in descending order, smallest to largest.
2. You have three total spaces in which you can work, and you start with the stacked tower sitting on one space. Younger players might benefit from having a play mat on which you’ve drawn out three spaces for them, but it’s unnecessary for older players.
3. The objective of the game is to reassemble the tower on another space. The reassembled tower must again be stacked with the circles in descending order, smallest to largest.
4. You may move one circle at a time between any of the three spaces.
5. You may NOT stack a circle on top of a circle that is smaller than it. Circles can only be put on empty spaces or stacked on top of circles that are larger than them.

The above photos illustrate a few different moves in the game. I don’t want to give you too many moves so that I don’t spoil your fun, but you can see from the photos the three working spaces, and the circles that are placed on a space or on top of a larger circle.

Remember that you can’t move an entire stack of circles at once–you can move only one circle at a time!

If you want to see the game in action, check out this online playable version.

If you’re a mathy kind of person, there IS a mathematical solution, and a pattern, to this puzzle. Figuring out how to record your moves is also a great introduction to analog coding, for those of you interested in STEM enrichment.

Want to give someone you love a sneakily educational gift? A beautifully embellished Tower of Hanoi inside a lovely little carrying case is just the thing!

Know a kid who’s high-energy and always seems to need more gross motor activity? Upscale this to a giant 3D version that they have to use their whole bodies to stack! Exercising their brain will make them just as tired as exercising their body, so you might even get a full night’s sleep!

P.S. Want to follow along with my craft projects, books I'm reading, dog-walking mishaps, encounters with Chainsaw Helicopters, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!

How to Make the Easiest Upcycled Cardboard Building Set

 

This tutorial was originally published on Crafting a Green World.

This upcycled cardboard building set is a terrific open-ended toy that won’t cost you a cent!

If you’ve ever seen a kid with a handful of LEGOs, you know how wonderful open-ended building toys are. They let kids exercise their creativity, build their problem-solving skills, strengthen math and physics concepts–and keep themselves entertained for ages, too! Open-ended toys have a lot more extended play-value than toys that have a single purpose (and a lot LOT more play-value than noisy, light-up toys!).

This particular upcycled cardboard building set is as open-ended as they come. You can create the pieces in any shape you can imagine, connect them in a myriad of ways, and even paint or decorate them however you’d like. And the best part is that as long as you have a piece of corrugated cardboard in your recycling bin, you can expand on your building set forever.! Tbh, creating the set is as fun as building with it!

Here’s how to make the quickest, easiest, and SUPER fun upcycled cardboard building set:

To make this building set: you will need:

• corrugated cardboard. Thin cardboard won’t work for this project, but pretty much any corrugated cardboard will. If you’re short on corrugated cardboard, check your local recycling center or ask around your friend group for shipping boxes.
• scissors. Cutting corrugated cardboard does take hand muscles, but larger scissors make it easier. If you’re making this project with younger kids, let them draw the pieces they want onto the cardboard, and then you can do the tough job of cutting them out. If kids are a little older, though, give them a go at cutting the cardboard themselves–it’s tough, sure, but it builds the hand muscles they need for writing by hand and other fine motor activities.
• tools for embellishment (optional). I really like the look of these plain, but with paint, markers, or stickers, you can add variety and creative inspiration. Googly eyes are always fun, as are pieces painted in a rainbow of colors. Use your imagination to make the cardboard building set of your dreams!

Step 1: Draw templates (optional), and cut the cardboard into shapes.

I’m a little obsessed with geometric shapes, but you can cut your corrugated cardboard pieces however you like. If you’re making a basic set for a kid, a variety of geometric shapes, along with some free-formed, more abstract pieces, will give them a good starting place.

If you’re making a set WITH a kid, however, my favorite technique is to encourage the kid to draw or cut any fun shape their heart desires, modeling a few ideas for them, perhaps, to give them the idea. While they’re being creative, I’ll cut out those same boring geometric shapes (I’m obsessed!) so that they’ve got some basic pieces to work with, as well.

Step 2: Cut notches in the cardboard pieces.

Cut a thin notches in the cardboard pieces wherever you’d like them to connect. Longer notches will hold the connections more firmly, but you don’t need the notches to go more than 1/4 or 1/3 of the way through the piece.

Cutting notches is a little easier than cutting out the pieces, so if you’ve got a kid who’s on the cusp of being able to cut the corrugated cardboard, this is a doable activity to help build their hand strength.

This is also a great place to add to the interest of the set. Finding unusual places to cut notches encourages kids to make more creative connections.

To play with this toy, simply connect the notches and start building!

I think kids have the best time when they can follow their own interests and imaginations, but you can sneak in some STEM problem-solving by offering up challenges. What is the tallest tower you can build? What is the longest bridge you can build between two chair backs? Can you build a square shape using only circle pieces? Try building a cat!

Cheap, accessible toys like these are especially important to have out in the world, because they build equity. The local underfunded childcare center probably doesn’t have fancy Magna-Tiles, and heck, even Duplos are ridiculously expensive these days, but anyone can make and donate a huge set of the most beautiful cardboard building toys with some time and patience.

And homemade toys like that are important for every kid to have, even if their parents can afford the bougie stuff. Maybe it’s the pre-Christmas anti-consumerist crankiness starting in me already, but I think it’s crucial for every kid to learn that some of the best toys are both handmade and free. I mean, I love all those fancy, expensive natural wood toys as much as the next crunchy mom (ask me about my Waldorf toy obsession anytime!), but you know what’s nearly as natural, and even more free, than that?

CARDBOARD, that’s what!

Upcycled Hair Accessories: Stashbust a Scrunchie

This tutorial was originally published on Crafting a Green World.

My favorite stashbusting projects are the types of useful accessories that you can never have too many of. You can never have too many zippered pouches, cloth napkins, fabric baskets, or pillowcases, and once you're used to making them, you can whip them out quick as lightning without having to refer back to the instructions. 

Scrunchies are one of my favorite stashbuster projects. Like the other projects that I mentioned, scrunchies are very forgiving, so you can fudge fabric dimensions as needed to fit your scraps. Scrunchies look cute in a wide variety of patterns and prints, from the classic to the novelty. And, for those of us with long hair, scrunchies are EMINENTLY useful! Toss a couple in every bag you own (bonus points if you store them inside a zippered pouch!) and a couple more in all your glove boxes, and you'll be set for any scenario. I lead a Girl Scout troop, and I keep spare scrunchies in my troop first aid kit and my troop campfire kit, too. Long hair will never keep MY Girl Scouts from adventure! 

To make a scrunchie from your stash fabric, you will need the following:

• fabric piece, approximately 24"x4". Remember how I said that you can fudge fabric dimensions as needed with this project? I did not lie! I've gone as short as 18" to use up the last bit of Halloween print, and as narrow as 3" to squeeze one last project out of a favorite dinosaur print.
• elastic, approximately 1/4" by 7". Again, though, use what you've got! I've made scrunchies using everything from FOE to 1/2" elastic to buttonhole elastic. You may need to adjust the length of the elastic if you've altered the length of the fabric piece. If your elastic can be tied by hand, reserve an extra inch for knotting it. If your elastic is too wide to hand-knot, you'll use that inch to stitch the two ends together.
• measuring, cutting, and sewing supplies. Don't forget the safety pin!

Step 1: Measure and cut your fabric and elastic pieces.

Novelty prints are the best for scrunchies! My teenagers think that scrunchies are so silly (I lived through the 1990s, and I know that they're right!), and they're happy to lean into the silliness when I surprise them with scrunchies made from the last bits of their favorite novelty prints. But other types of fabrics also make surprisingly successful scrunchies. I adore using thrifted sheets to back quilts, and the folded and hemmed top of a thrifted sheet makes an excellent scrunchie. Dress shirts and skirts are other good fabric options. 

My favorite dimension for the perfect scrunchie is, as I mentioned in the Materials section, 24"x4". But I'd go as short as 18" to use up a good scrap, and I'd absolutely rather go longer than toss a couple of inches of fabric in the trash. 

Cut your elastic to about 7", which allows for a .5" overlap on each side to either tie or sew the two ends of elastic together. I'm using up the last of some stash FOE for the scrunchies in this tutorial, but any elastic approximately 1/4" wide should work well.

Step 2: Make a fabric tube.

 Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, and iron to crease.  Sew the open long edge shut using a 3/8" seam to create the tube.  

Iron the seam open.  

Fasten a safety pin to one end of the tube. Use the safety pin as a bodkin to turn the tube right side out, then iron again so that your tube is tidy and flat.

 

Step 3: Insert the elastic.

 Fold one end of the tube to the inside about 1/2", and iron to crease.  

Fasten the safety pin to one end of the elastic, and use it as a bodkin to pull the elastic through the tube. Scrunch the fabric as you go so that it's scrunched into the middle, leaving both ends of elastic clear. 

If the elastic is narrow, you can sometimes get away with tying an overhand knot to connect the two end pieces. Otherwise, overlap the two ends by .5" and sew them together with the stitch of your choice.

 

Step 4: Close the tube.

Overlap the two ends of the tube, with the cuffed end on the outside. Sew them together with a sturdy straight stitch. 

Fluff up the scrunchie until all the scrunches are evenly distributed around the circle. 

DIY scrunchies make fun additions to Christmas stockings and Easter baskets, and care packages to your favorite young adult. Out of the six scrunchies that I made in this short afternoon's work, two are for my teenagers to wear as Halloween accessories (in my family, Halloween season starts in September!), two are going into their Christmas stockings, and two are going to hang out in my secret bin of presents, waiting for a special occasion yet to come.

DIY Cushion Cover from a Blanket

I originally published this tutorial on Crafting a Green World.

My family is SO hard on our stuff. We are the illustrated definition of not deserving nice things, because at any given time we are either muddy, actively painting, hosting five foster kittens from the local animal shelter, hosting thirteen teenagers from our Girl Scout troop, or just, you know, not paying attention to what we're doing. I'm the one who put a scorch mark in our (to be fair, at least 40-year-old) carpet by... well, I carried a pot of freshly popped popcorn directly from the stovetop and put it on the floor. Apparently that's very different from carrying a pan of piping hot Pizza Rolls directly from the oven and putting it on the floor. Who knew? 

So you might notice that here on CAGW I post a lot of tutorials for washable covers for furniture. I've got couch covers, chair covers, tablecloths and cozies of all kinds to attempt to save my stuff from the negligence of me and everyone around me. 

And the latest on the list? Cushion covers for my benches! It's easy to see why the hallway bench needs a cushion cover, because that's where everybody takes off their muddy boots and clay-covered sneakers and grimy yard Crocs. 

No matter what cushion you've got that needs a washable, reusable cover, I'm not going to judge you. Instead, I'm going to show you how to make that cover from any handy blanket that you've got in your stash. 

 Here's what you'll need!

• old blanket, quilt, bedspread, or similar piece of fabric. These thicker fabrics mimic upholstery weight fabric, so do a similar job holding up under wear and keeping spills from soaking through to the cushion below. They also tend to most often mimic the look of upholstery weight fabric, although there is no shame in covering a cushion in a vintage novelty He-Man bedspread, either! I had to work hard to convince myself to use this wool blanket that I thrifted (for $2.50!!!!!!!) instead of a vintage Sesame Street bed cover, and the only reason I decided against the Sesame Street cover is that the wool blanket is sturdier.
• patternmaking and cutting and sewing supplies. You'll need large-format paper to draw the cushion cover pattern, and all the usual suspects for measuring, cutting, and sewing.
• elastic. 
• bias tape (optional). With this wool blanket, I don't need it, but fabric that's prone to raveling will require it.

Step 1: Make a cushion cover pattern and use it to cut your fabric.

To make your cushion cover pattern, measure your cushion's length, width, and height. 

 To the length and width measurement, add .5", depending on the thickness of your fabric. My wool blanket is moderately thick, but if I was using one of those vintage 1980s bedspreads with lots of batting, I'd probably add more like 1". 

 Add a flap to each side of the cover pattern. Each flap should be the height of the cushion plus .5". 

 Lay out the pattern on your fabric and cut it out.

 

Step 2: Sew the cushion cover and add elastic.

With right sides together, sew the adjacent short sides of each of the flaps to each other, using a .25" seam allowance. Finger press the seams open. 

Measure approximately 6" of elastic for each corner of the cushion cover. Mark the center of each piece of elastic, then pin the center to the corner seam. 

Set your sewing machine to its widest zigzag and longest stitch length. Stretch the elastic, then zigzag it to the raw edge of the cushion cover, keeping it centered on the corner seam. This is exactly the way that you sew a fitted sheet! 

 Repeat for each corner of the cushion cover.

 

Step 3 (optional): Add bias tape.

If the raw edges of the cushion cover will tend to fray, encase them in double-fold bias tape. 

I like to have a spare of these types of home items, and to save space and time, I like to go ahead and put the spare on, as well. So although you can't see it (mwa-ha-ha!), underneath this wool blanket cushion cover is a second cushion cover, this time sewn from an unfinished vintage quilt top. It's a lot cuter but a lot less sturdy, which is why it's only the backup cover. 

However, whenever I'm emergency cleaning the house for imminent company, that nicer cover hiding underneath the plain, serviceable cover makes it super easy to whip off the plain cover, toss it in the dirty laundry, and have a cuter cover ready for company. It gets to show off for just as long as it takes to wash my workhorse cushion cover, then that cover goes back on top. So if you ever come visit me and you find yourself sitting on top of a sweet vintage quilt-covered bench cushion while you take off your filthy barn boots, then you know that you're VERY special!

DIY Drapes from Upcycled Sheets and Lining Fabric

This tutorial was originally posted on Crafting a Green World.

Drapes are a surprisingly eco-friendly home furnishing! 

You might think of drapes as those heavy velvet beasts that hide the windows in your grandma's parlor, gathering dust and waiting for Scarlet O'Hara to come along and upcycle them into a dress. 

Drapes, however, do more than just look pretty (if you just want something to look pretty, you want curtains!). Drapes are lined, usually with a specifically light-blocking fabric, but any tightly-woven fabric will do in a pinch. Lined fabric keeps out the light bleed that can negatively affect your sleep, whether that's dawn's early light or your neighbor's *^&%#%&#!!#% end-of-the-driveway beacon that they have no business keeping on all freaking night and not even because it shines directly in your bedroom window. I mean, how about because of light pollution!?! Energy expenditures! Seriously, do they not care about their electric bill AT ALL?!? 

 Anyway, where was I.... oh, right! The lined fabric of drapes makes it great for light-proofing a room, and it also makes it great for insulation. No matter how eco-friendly your windows, they're still less insulated than, say, your walls. The extra layer of insulation that drapes provide is always going to keep indoor temperatures more consistent and allow your climate control to run more efficiently. 

Drapes are surprisingly easy to sew, even for a novice. All you need to know is how to sew a straight line! Here's everything that you need to make your own drapes:

Flat Sheets

There are a billion curtain width calculators online. However, they assume you're either going to buy new curtains or make your own from scratch. 

To use flat sheets for curtains, here's an easy rule of thumb: each flat sheet should be AT LEAST as wide as your window. Since you'll have two for each window, this is an easy way to make sure your curtains are at least double the width of your window. Check out my post on sheet sizes translated to fabric yardage to see the width of standard flat sheets. Remember, though, that sheets aren't always standard. If they're new, they'll probably shrink when you pre-wash them. Thrifted sheets have probably already shrunk. And if they're vintage, who knows? The only way to get an accurate measurement is to pre-wash your sheet and then physically measure it by hand. Drapes look even better when they're more than double the width of the window, so don't be afraid to go up an entire sheet size to get the look that you want. Just remember that you'll have to buy lining fabric to match. 

 Lining Fabric 

 Lining fabric is useful in several ways. It keeps a room darker when the drapes are closed, it adds another layer of insulation, and it prevents direct sunlight from fading the drapes. The bad news is that all readily-available, specifically-marketed-as-such lining or blackout material is essentially plastic. And because all fabric has some sort of weave, you're not going to get a true blackout effect with just fabric alone. 

Fortunately, if you don't need a room to be 100% dark with the curtains closed, you have a ton of out-of-the-box lining options. For instance, I really like the option of simply using another flat sheet as a curtain lining. If you buy two of the exact same flat sheets, one for the drapes and one for the lining, their sizing will match perfectly. Buy them in the same color to blend, or buy them in different colors to look cute! 

 A blanket is another lining option that gives good light blockage and good insulation. It's a little harder to make a blanket blend in and look like anything other than a blanket on your window. However, if it's hidden as the lining on the backside of an otherwise conventional-seeming curtain, it's easier to get away with. 

Curtain Rings

Clip-on rings are the solution with the least sewing required. These are also really handy if you're just evaluating potential looks, because you can clip your wannabe drapes up and then easily take them down again without much fuss. Alas, clip-on rings are super annoying when I want to wash my drapes, because I have to remeasure their placement on the drapes each time. It's only now occurring to me that what I should do is stitch a little x in matching thread where I want each clip to go! Okay, hold on... I'll be back in about an hour. 

 Yeah, that worked great. Do that. Okay, here's how to make your beautiful new drapes!

Step 1: Wash and Dry the Fabrics.

  

 Even if your fabric is new, pre-wash it using the same method you plan to use when you wash your finished drapes. Drying your fabric can be tricky, because that's when fabric gets wrinkled. For wrinkle-free fabric, find a place where you can hang it to dry. Outside on the clothesline is ideal, of course, but I'd rather hang my fabric over the shower rod for an entire day to dry it without wrinkles than throw it in the dryer for an hour then spend three hours ironing.

Step 2: Measure and Cut Any Curtain Fabric.

 If you're using only flat sheets or blankets and therefore don't have to cut anything to size, then you're all set for the next step, you Lucky Duck! 

 Although I used two king-sized sheets for the curtain fabric, I used store-bought fabric for the lining. Above, then, is a photo of my family room after I shoved all the furniture aside and vacuumed the floor. Pretend you don't see the wrinkles, because I'll go live in the chicken coop before I iron all that. Speak this mantra with me: gravity will pull the wrinkles out after the drapes are hung.

Step 3: Sew the Lining Fabric to the Curtain Fabric.

 

Don't forget: we don't see those wrinkles! If you've got enough floor space, backing any large piece of fabric is fairly straightforward. First, tape down the edges of the bottom fabric, pulling it taut as you go. Next, lay the top fabric over it, pulling it taut and lining up the edges with the bottom fabric. Trim to size, then pin together. Finally, remove the tape. 

 I don't usually pin when I'm just sewing a simple, straight seam, but it's more necessary when the two pieces I'm sewing together are so large. It's too easy to get tangled up, otherwise! Here's my secret pro tip for sewing the lining fabric to the curtain fabric: if there are no raw edges (or if the raw edges won't ravel), only sew them together at the top.

Step 4: Clip on the Curtain Rings.

 Drapes are heavy, so they need support every few inches. Clip-on curtain rings are an easy solution, quick to remove and replace and simple to adjust. Eyeball the placement until they look evenly spaced, then clip them onto the drapes and mount the drapes on their curtain rod. 

These DIY drapes are a huge improvement over the vertical blinds that used to live there. During the day, the room is much brighter with drapes that can be completely pushed aside. When I'm asleep, the drapes do a much better job blocking the neighbor's light pollution and the annoyingly early sunrises. Next up, my kid wants her bedroom curtains upgraded to these light-blocking drapes, too. Her window also faces the neighbor's house!