This Is How I Keep My Wire-Bound Notebooks From Falling Apart

I originally published this tutorial over at Crafting a Green World.

Tired of the pages falling out of your wire-bound notebook? To fix it, you literally just need yarn. Or embroidery floss. Or twine.

Heck, even a shoelace would work!

Your spiral-bound notebooks are fine. The specific kind of notebook that I’m talking about here is the kind that uses what’s called twin loop wire binding. That’s the most common kind of DIY binding that handmade scrapbooks and journals use (see: my beloved Zutter Bind-It-All!), and if you don’t want to learn full-on bookbinding, it’s genuinely a really solid choice for a home-bound book.

This is what it looks like when the notebook starts falling apart. All those gaps between the wire loops, ugh!

… except for the part where the pages begin to slowly but steadily fall out of your cherished home-bound book, until one day you’re left with some bent wire and lots of loose-leaf paper. Twin loop wire-bound books are best suited for purposes that don’t involve a lot of wear and tear. A scrapbook, for instance, can be a great use for a wire-bound book, because once it’s complete, it’s generally handled infrequently, and gently. But those twin loops aren’t actually looped around each other, so the more use, the more handling, and the more carrying around and agitation and just plain life that a twin loop wire-bound book gets, the more the twin loops will work themselves apart, and the more the pages will start to work their way out of the binding.

It’s so frustrating!

Fortunately, the fix is SUPER easy. I can nearly guarantee you have something that will work for this fix, and that it will only take you a few minutes to complete. And then I can absolutely guarantee that your twin loop wire-bound notebook will never trouble you in this way again!

Materials

For this project, you will need:

• something you can thread between the loops. The material has to be thin enough to be threaded through the narrow side of the twin loop binding, but otherwise, anything works. This project works with yarn, ribbon, shoelaces, twine, strips of fabric, and embroidery floss. Heavy duty upholstery thread also works, although your typical polyester thread is too breakable.
• (optional) plastic tapestry needle. These generally have an eye wide enough to handle any of these materials. But you can do without it if you’re fairly dextrous.

Step 1: Tie a knot at one end of the binding.

Each end of the wire binding will end in a straight bit where the binding was cut to fit the notebook. Don’t tie your knot there, since it can slip off. Instead, tie a knot around the first loop. It doesn’t matter if it’s a wide loop or a narrow loop; either size will keep the knot in place.

Step 2: Wrap the yarn around every individual loop.

You can do this a couple of different ways, depending on whether or not you think you’ll ever want to disassemble this notebook.

If you know you’ll never want to take your notebook apart, tie a half-hitch around every loop you pass. It’s easy and looks tidy, and your binding will stay put forever!

However, the notebook I’m working on in these photos is my national parks passport stamp book. Sometimes I like to carry my whole book around, but sometimes I like to travel super lightly. For instance, did you know that there are something like THIRTEEN national park sites in New York City alone?!? If I’m flying carry-on only to NYC, then traveling via public transit and on foot across the length and breadth of Manhattan, I am NOT lugging that entire giant passport book every step I take. Instead, I open up the binding, remove the pages I need, and hop on my plane! So I don’t want to tie a knot I’d have to untie around every individual loop every time I want to unbind it.

So if you think you might want to unbind your book at some point, instead of a half-hitch, just loop your yarn twice around every individual wire loop. It looks maybe 2% less tidy and polished, but it keeps the binding just as secure, and when you want to unbind the book, you can snip the yarn near one of the knots, or untie the knot, and easily unthread the whole binding.

Your book is now perfect! This technique also keeps the notebook’s pages looking a lot nicer, because it’s hard on the pages to be constantly half-falling out of their binding. This is also an especially good fix for a child’s notebook, since kids tend to be a lot harder on their stuff and get a lot more frustrated when something breaks.

Not that I don’t get Big Feelings when it comes to my national parks passport stamp book, ahem. I only have 399 more stamps to go!

P.S. Want to follow along with my craft projects, books I'm reading, road trips to weird old cemeteries, looming mid-life crisis, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!

DIY Coloring Book with an Upcycled Cardboard Cover

 

This tutorial was originally posted on Crafting a Green World.

A DIY coloring book lets you customize exactly the coloring pages you want!

I was in the market for a new adult coloring book the other day, but I just could not find what I wanted! Honestly, how hard could it be to find a small-scale book with spoopy images that would be fairly quick to color and would have no swears, but also wouldn’t be baby-ish?

Ugh, it was SO hard!

Eventually, I went back to the only sure-fire way to get something that is EXACTLY the way I want it: DIY!

I modified my go-to DIY journal with a cover made from upcycled cardboard, and filled it with coloring pages downloaded from the interwebs. It’s exactly what I wanted, and here’s how you can make one, too!

To make your own DIY coloring book with an upcycled cover, you will need:

• coloring pages. Yes, you CAN print coloring pages in an eco-friendly manner! For each coloring book, you’ll want 10-12 coloring pages, printed two-to-a-page on cardstock. You’ll only be using one side of this cardstock, so feel free to use up the back sides of cardstock that’s already been printed on one side.
• upcycled cardboard. You need two pieces, each about 6″x7″. Any weight from cardboard food packaging to corrugated shipping box cardboard works well–in these photos, I’ve used both!
• metal butter knife. A bone folder or back of a spoon also works well.
• stapler and (optional) rubber block eraser. If you don’t have a long reach stapler, I’ll show you how to get the same effect with a regular stapler and a wedge eraser.
• measuring and cutting supplies. I used a gridded quilting ruler and guillotine paper cutter.

Step 1: Arrange and trim the coloring pages.

Print 10-12 coloring pages two to a page on cardstock, so that you have 5-6 of these sheets for your coloring book.

Trim the excess paper from the top and bottom of your sheets. If you have a good guillotine paper cutter, you can stack the sheets together and trim them all at once!

Step 2: Measure and cut the upcycled cardboard book cover.

Most types of cardboard should work well for this project… even thin food packaging, like this empty popsicle box that I rescued from my recycling bin!

Open the box so that it lies flat, then fussy cut two pieces of cardboard to serve as the book cover. You want the dimensions of the cover to be slightly larger than the dimensions of each page; for this half-scale coloring book, with top and bottom margins trimmed away, 6″x7″ was perfect.

Step 3: Trim and tape the book cover.

Order the coloring book pages, then fold them sharply in half, coloring images to the inside. Burnish the fold with the butt end of the butter knife to make it even sharper.

Compare the sizing of the finished quire to the book cover, and trim as needed. Above, I’m using the quire as a visual aid to mark where I want to trim my cover, because I’m too lazy to measure.

Now comes the magical part! Lay a length of duct tape, sticky side up, on your work surface. Set the two pieces of book cover on the tape, with about a 1/8″ gap between them. Tear off enough tape to fold over the spine completely and overlap just a bit. There shouldn’t be any sticky side left uncovered!

Use your fingernail or knife tip to burnish down that crack between the two halves of the cover, then turn the cover over and burnish the other side, as well. When you’re finished, you will have a complete book cover with a duct tape hinge.

Step 4: Staple the pages into the book.

Center the coloring book pages inside the cover so that the fold of the pages lines up with the duct tape hinge of the cover. You’ll have to flip this whole book over and staple it from the other side to keep the staple ends hidden, so feel free to secure the quire to the cover with a bit of washi tape, if you’d like.

If you’re lucky enough to own a long-reach stapler, just staple the cover to the pages from the outside. However, if you have a standard stapler, get a rubber wedge eraser or, as in the photo above, a stamp-carving blank, and center it underneath the spot where you want to staple.

Unhinge the stapler and staple the hinge from the outside, stapling into that rubber wedge eraser. Repeat for each of the other two staples you’ll put into the hinge from the outside.

Turn the book over and remove the rubber eraser, and you’ll see all the pointy staple ends sticking up alarmingly.

To solve the problem of pointy staple ends, just use the flat side of the butter knife to push them down!

This is a handy little coloring book to keep in your backpack in readiness for any time that boredom might strike.

Are your kids interested in other bookmaking projects? My kids LOVE bookmaking, and we've done a TON of bookmaking projects together over the years!

P.S. Want to follow along with my unfinished craft projects, books I'm reading, cute photos of the cats, high school chemistry labs, and other various adventures on the daily? Find me on my Craft Knife Facebook page!